Pants
Shop Pants for men, cut for a fit that holds its shape.
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Getting the trouser right
A trouser is judged at two points: the waist and the hem. If the waistband needs a belt to stay up, it is the wrong size regardless of what the label says, and a belt is then holding a shape rather than finishing an outfit. At the other end, the break decides whether the trouser looks cut for you or bought off a rail.
Which cut does what
- Chinos are the default. Cotton twill, flat front, straight leg, and the trouser that goes with the most things you own.
- Tailored trousers carry a pressed crease and do the work of suiting without being a suit.
- Gurkha trousers wrap and buckle at a high waist. The waistband is the garment, and they are worn with the shirt tucked.
- Linen pants are the hot-weather answer, and the only one that genuinely moves air.
On the break
A full break puddles and reads as borrowed. No break at all is a statement. A single soft break, where the hem just touches the shoe, is right almost always, and it is the one to ask a tailor for if you are unsure.
Common questions
What is a good pant for everyday wear?
A cotton twill chino in a mid neutral: sand, olive or navy. Flat front, straight through the thigh, finished just on the shoe. It carries almost any shirt and any shoe you own, which no other trouser does as reliably.
How should trousers fit at the waist?
They should stay up without a belt. If they need one to hold position, they are a size large, and the belt is doing structural work rather than finishing the outfit.
What trousers are best for Indian summer?
Linen first, then a light cotton twill. Both in a lighter colour, which reflects rather than absorbs. Avoid anything with a synthetic blend above about twenty per cent, which stops the cloth breathing.
